With his short legs and perky ears, the corgi is hard to resist. The good news is that the Pembroke Welsh corgi is a fairly low-maintenance breed when compared to other medium- or long-haired breeds. However, the seasonal shedding that makes occasional trimming minimal also makes forming a weekly habit of brushing him a good idea.

Brushing

Have your dog stand or lie on his side. Then with a slicker brush in hand, start at the back of the corgi’s hind leg and use the line brushing method, or brush in the direction of the hair growth. This helps remove any debris or tangles from the long, course outer coat and helps the brush reach the shorter undercoat of the double-coated corgi. Brush down the hock on each hind leg then brush the long hair on his thighs. Separate the hair with your free hand and brush it in about 3-inch sections. Continue up the sides brushing the coat in sections. Brush his front legs and chest in the same manner. Finish by brushing his face and ears with the slicker brush.

Bathing

Wet your corgi’s entire coat with lukewarm water. Apply a line of shampoo down his back. For the thick coat of the corgi, a texturizing shampoo that removes dirt but leaves shine works well. Massage the shampoo into the coat, then rinse it with water until the water runs clear. Towel dry your four-legged friend and spray a light leave-in conditioner on his coat; a cream conditioner may be too heavy and leave his coat limp. Finish drying his coat with a hairdryer on the lowest setting.

Trimming

The low-maintenance corgi even needs a slight trim, not a major clipping, every now and then. The most important area is the feet. Trim the hair around the top of the paws and under them around the pads with scissors once every eight weeks. Avoid cutting between the toes since the corgi has webbed toes and you may nip them. Remove any long, stray hairs over the body with scissors. Have a groomer clip your corgi’s toenails and genital area once a month.

Tips

Start grooming your corgi early and teach him to lie on him side for brushing. Since the breed experiences seasonal shedding, early preparation for future grooming is key. When brushing your corgi, look for mats and tangles. If you locate any, use a metal comb and work them out by holding the hair away from the skin and combing from the end of the hair back toward the skin. Before wetting your pup, place cotton balls in his ears to keep water out. When washing him, do not scrub the hair; this may cause tangles or mats to form in it. Never shave the corgi’s coat; the signature double coat may never grow back properly.

Feeding your dog homemade food ensures he is always eating something safe. With so many commercial foods being recalled and making dogs sick, homemade is best. Dogs need meat in their diets, along with vegetables and grains to maintain good health and get the necessary nutrients.

Basic Dog Food

1Pour one pound of raw ground hamburger into a large bowl. Add two cups of finely diced vegetables. Any vegetables will do, and more than one vegetable should be used. If your dog is prone to gas, avoid vegetables such as broccoli that may cause flatulence.

2Add in a half-cup of organ meat, such as chicken or beef liver, and a half-cup of plain yogurt.

3Crack three eggs into a separate bowl, and crumble the shells in the bowl as well. Beat the eggs and shells thoroughly, then pour into the hamburger mixture.

4Mix all ingredients together thoroughly. Feed two to three cups at each feeding, depending on the size of your dogs. The remainder can be stored in the refrigerator for several days.

Dog Stew

1Steam two cups of brown rice until thoroughly cooked. Steam one cup of vegetables as well, using several different kinds.

2Brown a pound of ground beef in a pan. Add the rice and vegetables to the beef after it is cooked and remove from heat.

3Pour in one cup of grated carrots and one tablespoon of vegetable oil. Stir to mix all ingredients thoroughly. Allow to cool completely before feeding. Feed two to three cups per feeding. Refrigerate the remainder.

Certain dog breeds have a distinct ability to grow long, thick hair that looks like dreadlocks or ropes. This occurs when the top coat intertwines with the soft, fluffy undercoat, creating locks of felted hair known as “cords.” If you want to purchase a canine companion that looks unique and will turn heads while walking down the street, consider a dog with a corded coat. Their mop-like appearance and bouncing dreadlocks will get people talking.

Bergamasco Sheepdog

A native of Iran, the Bergamasco sheepdog has a thick coat comprised of three types of hair. This includes a smooth, oily undercoat, which adheres to the skin, forming a moisture barrier; a course layer of “goat hair” and the woolly top hair. As the hair grows, it weaves together forming what looks like dreadlocks or ropes. By the time your Bergamasco is 5 years old, he will have a long, fully corded coat that reaches to the ground.

Puli

The puli has been bred as a sheepdog in Hungary for more than 2,000 years. The coat begins to cord when a puli is 9 months of age. During this time, your puli’s hair will stand straight out until the coat grows long enough to form ropes. Examine the cords on a weekly basis to ensure they stay separate and do not get tangled with one another, which can create a painful mat.

Komondor

The komondor originates from Hungary where it was used to guard sheep and herdsmen. The breed is known as the “king of guard dogs.” Their long white, corded coat and impressive size commands instant respect. Male komondor’s average 27.5 inches in height and females stand 25.5 inches tall. A komondor’s long rope-like hair easily picks up leaves, twigs and debris, which need to be hand-picked out of the coat daily.

Spanish Water Dog and Poodle

With a history dating back to 1110 AD, the Spanish water dog was used to herd sheep, goats and cattle in Spain for centuries. They are considered a single coat breed as they posses a sparse undercoat. Their curly and slightly woolly hair will twist together, forming cords. Poodles also can display a corded coat, which was extremely popular during the Victorian era. However, their hair does not form cords naturally. It is up to you to allow the coat to grow long and carefully separate the curly locks.

Coat Care

Corded breeds should only be bathed one to three times annually. Bathing is a time-consuming process. Lather each cord with a mild shampoo containing tea tree oil. Rinse thoroughly. Squeeze the cords with your hand to remove excess water. Pat the coat dry with a towel. Never rub as this can cause the cords to tangle. The coat must be dried thoroughly to prevent mildew and odor. If the weather is warm, you can let your pet dry in the sun. Otherwise use a pet dryer that blows cool air. The drying process can take up to 12 hours.

Epilepsy is a disorder of the brain that results in seizures. Any dog breed can develop epilepsy caused by infections, toxins, trauma or other underlying conditions, but congenital or primary epilepsy is caused by to genetic abnormalities. In this case, certain breeds have a greater predisposition. It runs within family lines. If a dog has congenital epilepsy, removal from the breeding pool is essential. If you suspect your dog has epilepsy, talk to your veterinarian regarding treatment options. Have a question? Get an answer from a Vet now!

Breed Predisposition

Breeds with predisposition for congenital epilepsy include Australian shepherds, beagles, Belgian Tervurens, border collies, boxers, cocker spaniels, dachshunds, German shepherds, golden retrievers, Irish setters, keeshonds, Labrador retrievers, poodles, Saint Bernards, Shetland sheepdogs, Siberian huskies, springer spaniels, Welsh corgies, wirehair fox terriers and vizslas. Recessive traits also show in the Bernese mountain dog, Irish wolfhound and Finnish spitz.

The two essential ingredients of clicker training, a marvelously effective method of positive reinforcement, are treats and a noise. A clicker is just something that makes a distinctive sound, preferably one that your dog is unlikely to hear in other contexts. While commercial clickers aren’t especially expensive, it’s simple enough to make your own. If you are just beginning this sort of training with your dog, practically anything will do. If you started with a commercial clicker, you need something that makes the same sort of sound.

1Save a small metal jar lid with a safety button. Safety buttons are the raised areas that pop up when you open the jar so you can be sure the container has not been tampered with. Baby food and pickle jars usually have suitable tops. It needs to be small enough to fit comfortably in the palm of your hand.

2Wash any food remnants off the lid and dry it. It’s worth preparing more than one, so you have a spare clicker on hand if the original gets damaged or lost.

3Push the safety button out farther with the hammer. Hold the head of the hammer against the underside of the button and hold firmly onto the lid while pushing with the hammer head. The bottom, not the sharp end, of a screwdriver or similar tool also works for this purpose. Enlarging the safety button increases the sound level.

4Test your clicker by pressing the button and push it out again until you are getting a loud click. Don’t worry if the lid becomes distorted.

5Hold the lid in the palm of your hand with the top side uppermost while training. Push the button with your thumb whenever you need to click.

One of the oldest of dog breeds, the tiny, pure white Maltese has been a favored companion since the days of the ancient Greeks. Smart, brave and energetic, these little dogs usually bring joy to the lives of their owners. Still, the Maltese can experience some problems, whether behavioral or medical. Just because a dog is little doesn’t mean that training isn’t required. It’s important that your dog receive annual visits to the vet.

Tiny Dogs, Big Mouths

Your little white pup makes a good watchdog. He’ll let you know if anyone comes near your home. On the other hand, Maltese can become problem barkers. That’s especially true if they’re frequently left alone. They were bred as companion dogs and don’t like solitude. You might be unaware that your tiny pal is a nuisance barker until your neighbor complains. Lots of exercise and playtime might alleviate minor barking problems, but for serious issues, contact a dog trainer.

Tiny Dogs, Big Nerves

Although the Maltese is among the smallest of the toy breeds, weighing less than 7 pounds at maturity, he doesn’t realize he’s a little guy. A tiny dog with a lot of nerve can cause a problem when he encounters other canines. Adjectives like “spunky” and “bold” often describe the Maltese personality, but that also means your courageous little dog might have no fear about taking on a more powerful animal. It’s up to you to protect your best friend when he’s in the company of other dogs.

No Small Children

Tiny dogs and tiny kids don’t mix. A Maltese can make a good family dog for older kids who know how to handle him. He’s just too small a dog for young children, who can inadvertently hurt him. That can result in kids being bitten in self-defense. If you occasionally host small visitors, keep them away from the dog or supervise them very carefully.

Maltese Grooming

If you aren’t fond of frequently brushing your dog, choose another breed. While grooming isn’t a Maltese “problem” per se, if it’s not done regularly you’ll have one. Your Maltese requires daily brushing and regular trips to a professional groomer. His hair mats easily, so can quickly become a mess. Matted hair can lead to skin infections.

Health Issues

Maltese aren’t prone to a lot of serious health problems. Among the most common is liver shunt, a genetic disorder found in many small dog breeds. It occurs when a prenatal vein that carries blood for the fetus fails to close after birth. Blood in these dogs bypasses the liver, which has the job of filtering toxins. Special low-protein diets can manage liver shunt in some dogs, while others require surgery to correct the condition. Other health issues affecting the Maltese include luxating patellas, also known as popped kneecaps, periodontal disease and, rarely, a neurological condition known as shaker dog syndrome.

If your vet diagnoses your adorable new puppy with a hernia, don’t panic. Umbilical and inguinal hernias, the most common types, are quite treatable and shouldn’t cause problems for your pup as he grows into adulthood. A hernia means that there’s a tear or hole in a part of the body’s wall, through which an organ or another body part protrude.

Umbilical Hernias

If you notice a protrusion in the area of your puppy’s belly button, underneath his rib cage, it’s likely he has an umbilical hernia. In some puppies, these hernias close up and disappear before the age of 6 months. If it doesn’t go away, surgical removal is advisable. While most umbilical hernias don’t bother adult dogs, there’s always the slim possibility that part of his intestines could become trapped, cutting off the blood flow. This results in strangulation, requiring emergency surgical correction.

Inguinal Hernias

Inguinal hernias are less common in puppies than umbilical hernias. They can occur in male puppies, but are more often found in female dogs going through pregnancy or estrus. You might notice a swelling in the area of your dog’s groin, or in the scrotum of an intact male dog. Inguinal hernias are usually painless and don’t cause problems unless a strangulation results.

Correction

Hernias in puppies are often corrected when the dog is spayed or neutered, since the animal is already under anesthesia. Scar tissue formed around an umbilical hernia is removed. The site is then closed by suturing. With an inguinal hernia, any organs that protrude are put back in place, with stitches or a muscle graft repairing the hernia. Most puppies experience no complications and hernia recurrence is rare. The puppy might need to wear an Elizabethan collar for several days after surgery, but that also would be necessary to keep a spayed female from bothering her incision.

Diaphragmatic Hernias

Unlike inguinal or umbilical hernias, diaphragmatic hernias result from trauma. Your puppy could experience a diaphragmatic hernia if he’s hit by a car, mauled by another dog or receives any type of severe blunt force. A tear occurs in the diaphragm, which separates the chest from the abdomen. Through this opening, the gastrointestinal and other organs can enter the chest cavity. If you did not witness the trauma your puppy went through, the most obvious sign of a serious diaphragmatic hernia is difficulty breathing. Puppies with small tears might be asymptomatic. If your dog receives any serious blow, take him to the vet for an examination even if he seems fine.